Thursday morning was a grey and drizzly Berlin day. We were determined to show Irene the wall. Michele used Google maps to plot our way to the open air museum, finding a shortcut through a very historic cemetery which was affected by the wall’s construction.

The memorial at Gartenstraße explained the history in German & English through text, audio and video. The bleak weather added to the solemn atmosphere.

We walked up to Bernauerstraße and bravely decided to tackle the Ubahn…which actually was not too hard to work out. Only two stations to Alexanderplatz and then it was lunch time. We dined at a restaurant called Carambar, where Michele had spaghetti and Teresa & Irene shared the “capital dish”, which consisted of typical German sausages, potato and meatballs. The service was very good and our waiter was very good looking. Lunch was over and it was now time to shop! Our 22kg baggage limit was now in the past. We hit TKMaxx with avengence and some good purchases were made.

With our new found confidence in the Ubahn, we caught the train back to Rosenthaler, dropped our shopping into our apartment and went across the road for one of our favourite bloody Marys. Michele was obliged to report back on the red wine that she had purchased the day before so, afterwards, we just had to go and visit Frieda and Fifty again.

We then explored an area that was recommended to us for dinner but found it to be full of retail rather than restaurants. So we made our way back to where our apartment was to try and find somewhere to eat. We found that it is very hard to locate traditional German food in the German capital. After wandering around the wet streets and traversing the five-way intersection we settled on a Vietnamese restaurant. Here Michele & Teresa order beef Pho soup but Irene won out with her crispy duck dish. Our stomachs filled, we retired to our room to rest up in preparation for our next adventure. We enjoyed watching Avatar in German as we relaxed in our room. Tomorrow, Leipzig. Gute nacht!

It was an early start, with our airport shuttle driver picking us up at 6:45am. He drove us 30mins to the airport. Going through security Irene got the full pat down treatment once again. They seem to like her for some reason.

Teresa had paid extra and booked our seats for our Ryan Air flight, which gave us priority boarding. We would recommend doing this. We had row 2 on the plane, which was a great row to be in as it was easy and quick to get on and off. As we approached Berlin there was a lot of low lying cloud, we could just make out the tip of the Telekom tower poking through the top. On descent, we realised how low the clouds really were, as the runway did not appear until we were on it.

Catching an Uber from Berlin airport to our accommodation was fuss free. Our apartments, Rosenthal Apartments, are in the heart of Mitte. The kind man at reception put our bags into storage (check in was not for several hours, until 3pm) and recommended Common Ground across the road for lunch. Here we ordered chickpea & zucchini fritters with smashed avocado, and Michele had pulled pork tacos. These were washed down with the most amazing bloody Mary’s…so we met our quota of vegetables for the day. Very impressed!

After lunch we walked and walked with the intention of finding the Brandenburg Gate. The place was crawling with tourists from all cultures, so we took our photos and got out again. On our way back we stopped at a bar for a cocktail and a rest. Irene & Michele had Long Island iced teas, and Teresa had an Irish coffee. We retraced our steps back to a wine shop that had been previously closed and guarded by a very cute and vocal little French Bulldog. This time the shop was open and we got to meet Frieda and Fifty (Frieda was 1yr old and Fifty had just turned 12 on Irene’s birthday). We had a play, Irene took off her beanie for them to chase and Fifty took off with it out the back. After the owner retrieved it we bought some wine and reluctantly said goodbye.

There is a burger shop called Kreuzburger next to our apartments. We decided that we could all do with a burger for dinner so we took advantage of its proximity. Here we got genuine hamburgers and a serve of fries smothered in chilli and cheese. The staff here were super friendly and we washed everything down with beer. Tomorrow we find mauer. Gute nacht!

Today we wanted to find the Jewish quarter of Kraków. On the way we found a “milk bar”, which is an example of a canteen from the communist era, where you order your food from the cash register and then stand with your tray waiting for your food to either be served from a bain marie or cooked in the kitchen. Teresa had Zurek and Irene had plucki.

We continued walking toward the Kazimierz, stopping again along the way for a mulled wine and iced coffee, and Michele had an amazing goulash soup. More walking through the ghetto area, we found some markets and visited Ghetto Heroes Square. Here there are many chairs made of brass and bronze to commemorate the Jewish people lost in WWII.

Since it was our last day in Kraków , we wanted to take advantage of the sales. Retail therapy was calling, so we then found our way to the Galleria. Once we were done shopping we made our way back, past the Jewish cemetery, which is very old and crowded with mossy graves. We also passed through another market square selling fresh food and clothing. We may or may not have gone back via our favourite vodka bar. Before we got to our apartment, however, we discovered that the store across the road was having a big sale….70% off…who could resist!

The restaurant under our accommodation was booked out for the night so we had to change our plans. We walked the square until a spruker attracted our attention and convinced us to eat at the Number 7 restaurant. We opted to eat outside, in a room that was enclosed in glass. Here we ordered gołompki and pork schnitzel…of course washed down with vodka. A quick stop back at the store on the way home for Teresa’s impulse buy and then time to retire. Dobranoc!

Due to the location of our apartment there was a bit of street noise outside throughout the night from people enjoying their Sunday night out on the town. That aside, the beds are comfortable (there are 4 single ones) and the apartment is spacious.

We awoke excitedly to a forecast of snow, finally! Irene already got to witness a light sprinkling throughout the morning. We got ready and headed outside. The Sukiennicza markets were first on our list of activities. There were many stalls selling souvenirs, clothing and lots of Baltic amber jewellery. After the markets we went to a restaurant for a meal, where we ordered a round of Irish coffees and Michele and Irene decided on dessert for breakfast. Creme brûlée and a walnut sundae….yum! Teresa had kielbasa. This restaurant was in the heart of the main square with a view of the Mariacka church.

The snow began to fall more heavily, so we cheerfully walked across the square. Our flight on Wednesday is to Berlin with Ryan Air. They warn you that if you do not print a boarding pass beforehand, the airport will charge you 50€ each to print at the airport. Our accommodation reception was on the other side of the square but they were very obliging and printed our passes for us, as well as arranging an airport shuttle.

We began to walk toward Wawel Castle but got sidetracked by a hairdresser, so we made an appointment and found a restaurant to base ourselves in. While Teresa and Michele were getting salon ready Irene stayed at a table in the restaurant feeling like she had been stood up on a first date. Looking fabulous once more, we joined Irene and enjoyed some good old Polish food. Soups were goulash and two kinds of Zurek, with egg for Teresa and no egg for Michele. To follow we shared a plate of placki (potato pancakes) served with sour cream, which were crispy and amazing.

After our meals we continued our walk to Wawel Castle just as the sun was setting at around 3:30pm. The snow was still falling but much lighter. The darkness surrounding the castle only made it look more magical. The legendary Wawel dragon unfortunately was closed until the 31st of March but we enjoyed wandering the scenic grounds anyway. Before he passed away, Mikołaj (Dziadek) had told Irene that she had to visit the “castle with the dragon in Kraków” when she came to Poland. She had a lock of his hair to bring to Poland, his homeland, and she felt that this was the place to leave it. Kocham Cię Tata/ Dziadek💕

We began making our way back to the old town but were distracted by a vodka bar that Teresa, Michele and Scott had been to on a previous trip. Here you get a tasting “paddle” of six shots of vodka. The bar had 100 different flavours to choose from, so we asked the barman to choose a selection for us. Our two paddles included flavours such as: lemon/chilli, chocolate, hazelnut, grapefruit, strawberry, salted caramel, lemon and original, among others. Needless to say that we left here quite merry.

Dinner was back at the same restaurant that we had breakfast at, as we liked the authentic look of the food. Here we ordered pierogi, mushroom soup and Zurek. More vodka was ordered and we spent most of the time laughing. We retired to our room for the second night, ready for more adventures tomorrow. Dobranoc!

We awoke on our final morning in Lubin to another beautiful table of breakfast dishes. Władek made one last quick visit to say goodbye and Anna & Elsżbieta packed us a take away pack of sandwiches, chocolates and cake. Saying goodbye to these beautiful people is never easy. Feniks the cat looked on with satisfaction, as he knew he would not have to share his house anymore.

Damien drove us an hour and 20 mins back to Wrocław, with Amadeusz as our chaperone. We still had 40mins until our bus came and they insisted on coming in and waiting with us. Amadeusz told us that they would “be killed” if they did not stay with us until the last moment. First class service from beginning until the end, even taking our bags for us all the way to the bus ❤️.

Front row seats again for the 3 hour bus trip, Irene had a whole row to herself. Our lunch of packed sandwiches were some of the tastiest we have ever had. The Polskibus trip was uneventful, but comfortable, although the toilet appeared to be locked the entire time.

We met our Uber driver on the rooftop car park near the bus station and he took us to the end of our street in Kraków. Our apartment is right in the heart of the old town. The name of where we are staying is Barbican (and she bloody well can!) and is accessed through a restaurant. Luckily our room is on the first floor as, being a building front the 13th or 14th century, there is no lift. The lady informed us that we could write to the builders if we had any complaints (haha).After freshening up we set out to explore the main square of Kraków. First activity on the list was taking Irene on a horse drawn carriage ride around the old town. The weather was chilly but we were cosy under our blanky in our little white carriage. Although it was only 5:30pm, it felt much later because it was so dark. As luck would have it, it was also the last night of their Christmas markets. We took advantage, ordered mulled wines, and admired the many beautiful stalls. One of the most impressive and creative was a display of rusty tools which turned out to be made entirely of chocolate. These people also apparently have a shop in Warsaw. The street food being cooked smelled and looked delicious but we were reluctant to take our gloves off to enjoy it, as it was so cold. Instead, we found a restaurant advertising traditional Polish food. Here we ordered to share: two types of pierogi and a serve of gołompki, washed down with prosecco. The service was good but the food was not up to our standard (we have been too spoiled with Babcia’s cooking) and served not very hot. We were ready to retire, so we stocked up on supplies and then settled into our new abode for the evening. Dobranoc!

Today is a national holiday for Poland, celebrating the three wise men giving gifts to Mary and Joseph for baby Jesus. This year is also special because Poland is celebrating 100years of independence.

We were informed the night before that breakfast would be served at 10am. Of course we came down the stairs to a beautiful table set with a wide selection of meats, cheeses, bread and accompaniments. Scrambled eggs were also being cooked. We were not allowed to lift a finger as we were provided with first class service. Once finished, we were driven to one the 12 churches in Lubin for the 11:30am mass. Irene was worried that the the roof may cave in as she arrived but Pavel assured her that the churches in Lubin were Irene-proof and had very strong walls. The church was full, the altar was heavy with priests and the service was conducted in Polish. The children’s choir was quite beautiful.

After mass the crowd was organised into teams: blue, red and green to represent each wise man. We were given cardboard crowns as part of the blue team. As we lined up with the crowd, there was lots of chanting and singing around us. People and children were dressed up in capes and there were horse drawn carriages that led each group. The procession commenced and we walked along the streets stopping at various “stations” where there were performances recreating particular events in Polish history. The atmosphere was vibrant and the whole village seemed to be participating in the event. Anna and Milena were dressed as angels in the last performance and Honorata would have been on stage playing music with Piotr but unfortunately she was at home very ill.

The parade finished in the new stadium. It was crowded with people singing carols and enjoying the festivities. This lasted for about an hour.

Back to Elsżbieta’s place, where another feast was being prepared by Jacek and Evalenka. This time the whole family would be joining us, 20 people in total, with the exception of poor Honorata. Anna and Damien arrived with little Kacper, who was thoroughly entertained by Irene’s antics (and will remember her as a baba jaga). Entree was chicken soup with noodles followed by platters of meat including schnitzel, chicken thighs stuffed with mince, meat balls with cheese and beef roulade. Accompaniments included sauerkraut, klusky (dumplings), potatoes and various salads. To drink was cherry juice, grapefruit juice, water……and vodka.

Our entertainment tonight was in the form of games. We played Jenga, Dobble and another game of number strategy, in teams, called Rummikub. The language differences were insignificant as we played together, and laughter filled most of the night. Goodbyes were said as various family members departed and Irene and Teresa sensibly went to bed at around midnight. Those who remained sat up playing games until 2am, with Amadeusz ensuring that he and Michele finished every last drop of vodka.

What a special day to share with the family, experiencing traditions that we would not have the chance to experience in Australia. Another fantastic visit with this beautiful family, we will be sad to say goodbye tomorrow. But alas, more traveling must be had. Dobranoc!

Happy Birsday Irena! The longest birthday you have ever had.

Teresa and Irene went out to breakfast at a seafood cafe. They ordered the scrambled eggs with salmon and butter, and a frittata with mushrooms, tomato and cheese. They were very tasty. Michele stayed home and rested a bit more. It wasn’t long until it was time to get an Uber to the Polskibus station. The Uber was a Mazda van and our driver was very informative. We’ve only had good experiences with Uber so far, and we know that we can trust that the driver won’t be overcharging us.

The bus ride was delayed by 35mins but we were able to keep Amadeusz informed thanks to the onboard Wifi. Kamil and Amadeusz were waiting for us at Wrocław when we arrived and Kamil drove us another 1hr 20mins to Elsżbieta’s house in Lubin. We were once again welcomed like we were long lost relatives coming home. Waiting for us was Elsżbieta, Pavel, Teresa, Janusz, Anna & Milena. Faneks the cat sighed with bemusement that he would have to share his house once again.

The family did not tell Władek of our arrival so it was an emotional greeting when he came through the door, especially for Irene meeting him for the first time.

The table was laden with delicious foods and we knew that we had arrived at the best restaurant in Poland. Entree was pork and vegetable soup and for main we had pierogi (mushroom & cabbage served in goose fat) along with multiple salads and sides. To drink was jugs of cherry juice, apple juice and water…and of course, vodka! The family were so generous, gifting us with ceramic angels and surprising Irene with a bunch of flowers for her birthday.

After dinner Amadeusz disappeared with the promise of returning with a little surprise. After about 20mins he returned with his best friend, Piotr, and a keyboard in tow. Piotr was Amadeusz’s first vocal coach and is also Milena’s current vocal coach. The concert began. Amadeusz performed three beautiful arias in Latin and Italian. Milena sang “Tomorrow”, and Piotr played the keyboard and sang us some songs in English. He even made us laugh by serenading Irene in a Peter Allen-esque style performance for his last song.

For dessert we had toffee cake served with coffee, tea and more vodka. It was a very special first night and we enjoyed it immensely. Having Amadeusz there of course made it a lot easier to communicate, although Milena, Pavel and Elsżbieta’s English is quite good too. We were weary after a day of travel and went to bed at around midnight. Tomorrow is another big day. Dobranoc!

The sun rises at 7:30am in Poland at this time of year, much earlier than our previous two countries. We got dressed and set out to find the old town. We stopped at Loft for a bite to eat and some beers. Here we had our first Polish pierogi of the trip (yours are still better Babcia), filled with cheese and potato, served without sour cream and when we asked they said they don’t have any!

The temperature was about 6 degrees but there was a biting wind that made it feel much colder. We found the old town quite easily (no thanks to Michele, who tried to convince us it was in the opposite direction). There are a lot of pop-up outdoor museums along the way informing us of various historical events, and there are also constant glittering Christmas installations decorating the streets.

We walked into the old town square and admired more markets. All of this was apparently was completely destroyed by bombs during World War II but now restored. We bought Irene some Oscypek from a street vendor to try, which is smoked salty cheese served hot, delicious! We continued exploring the historical streets and walked home, via a quick espresso martini pit stop, as the dark set in at around 3:30pm.

We were really keen to have an authentic Polish meal for dinner, and luckily there was a restaurant just around the corner. Kuźnia Smaku was a dimly lit, inviting place and we were the first guests to arrive. Robert was out waiter who made us feel very welcome, even bringing us complimentary sparkling rosé when he found out that it was Irene’s birthday (well, in Australia anyway, it’s to be a looong one this year). We shared two types of pierogi: goose, and veal, served with a cup of sour borsh, which was divine. We also shared a plate of gołompki (cabbage rolls), which were just as delicious (but still nothing on yours Babcia!). We washed this down with shots of Zubrowka and called it a night. On the short walk home we encountered a severely drunk man who was trying desperately to stand up but kept falling on his head on the hard concrete. We tried to help him and told him to sit down but he refused. Luckily a young lady saw the commotion and spoke to him in Polish. She said that he was telling us to leave him and she would call the police from afar. We thanked her and set off home for bed.

We are catching a bus to see the Polish family tomorrow so we may not have Wifi to post for a couple of days. We will be sure to tell you about it once we are back on line. Until then, dobranoc!

Today we said goodbye to Scott, who had to travel back to Frankfurt to do something called work…..what’s that again? Michele and Teresa were in desperate need of a hair salon so the four of us walked down to the big shopping centre. Scott caught an Uber from just out the front so we said our farewells (he texted us from the airport to tell us that the Uber had cost him €3.70!). Michele and Teresa managed to find blow drys within an hour of each other and the rest of the time was spent perusing the shops.

We had a quick bite to eat at a cafe on the way home and then packed our things ready for our flight to Warsaw. Our Uber driver, Roman,met us downstairs and was very talkative and friendly. The ride only cost us €3.50.

When Teresa was booking our flights with Lot Airlines, she had spent the extra $68 so that she could choose our seats (she had chosen two window seats and an aisle in the same row) so we were surprised to see that they had not honoured this. The lady told us where to go to rectify this and, once we were settled in the bar with refreshments, Teresa went to speak to them. The lady made a quick phone call and assured us that new boarding passes would be issued at the gate. When we finally got to the gate, the lady gave us our new boarding passes which were all in the same row….one on the window and two in the aisle. Lesson learnt: don’t bother paying extra for seats that you can’t be guaranteed. On embarking on our flight we found that the man who was supposed to be sitting on the window seat was sitting in the aisle…so we got our wish anyway!

The flight was delayed by about half an hour but once in the air it was quick and smooth. We took a taxi from the airport to our apartment in the heart of Warsaw and met with Piotr. He was very informative about the apartment and even walked us to Aioli, the restaurant around the corner that he recommended for dinner. By now it was around 8:30pm so we were keen to just have a quick bite and then settle in to our apartment for the night. The restaurant was very busy, with a young crowd and a dj in the corner. We ordered off the typically Italian menu: roast beef fettuccine for Michele, a burger for Teresa and chorizo pizza for Irene. Beers and a margarita accompanied our meals.

With dinner completed we found a 24 hour supermarket around the corner that sells alcohol (eat your heart out Helsinki!) to stock up, and then headed home. The apartment is cosy and adequate for our needs. Teresa and Michele are in a tiny room with two single beds and Irene is in a tiny room with a double bed. The living area is spacious and we have found one tv channel that is in English, without a man speaking over the top in Polish. Tomorrow we explore Warsawa. Dobranoc!

The rain had washed away the snow and we awoke to a drizzly morning in Tallinn. We took our time getting ready, on account of the 9:30am sunrise, and then headed out into the day. We found the Occupation Museum, which documented the turbulent Estonian history. It was quite sombre and eye-opening reading about the atrocities suffered by people throughout the last 70years. We spent about an hour here before going off in search of lunch.

A quick stop in the Christmas Markets saw Irene go a little beany-crazy. She found 5 sparkly ones that she just could not decide between…what the hell, we’re on holidays….she just got them all!

We found the Golden Piglet, a quirky little restaurant in the old town serving traditional Estonian cuisine. We started off by ordering crispy pigs ear with garlic sauce for the table and some soup: Michele had a sauerkraut and pork soup, Irene had creamy pea soup with smoked pork, and Scott had pumpkin and vegetable soup with smoked cheese….a clear winner. For main course Teresa had an amazing crispy pork shank with mustard and Scott had pork roast with sauerkraut. We washed down lunch with Estonian beer, pepper vodka and local liqueur called vana. Irene and Scott also tried a traditional dessert drink called Kama, which is a milled flour blend (a bit like a really smooth porridge) served with berries.

We picked up supplies at the supermarket and then went home for another quiet night in. In this country we can actually watch tv in English and the WiFi is good. Tomorrow, Poland! Head ööd!