Just after sunrise, the mist rolled in and hid the view of Plettenberg Bay. Some rain had fallen but it was not very heavy.

We packed our supplies and belongings into the tiny car boot like a jigsaw and set off for our mountain adventure.

We turned off the R2 highway onto the R340 highway which then turned into a gravel road for 20 kilometres. The road wound up the side of mountains revealing spectacular valleys and landscapes. It felt like the wilderness which made Teresa a very nervous passenger despite Scott assuring her that it was safe.

This road then joined the R339 which was also gravel and it seemed that if we continued in this direction we would not see any towns or petrol stations, only remote farms and green foliage.

So we turned back and settled at the Bitou winery for lunch and some research about an alternative route as we did not expect the gravel roads.

We ordered the oxtail and the soup of the day (vegetable) which was delicious but turned out to sit in both our guts all day and we did not want to eat for the rest of the day.  

We found a longer route with more tarred roads and set out after lunch through George on the R2 and then out to the R9 which was still tarred.

We were in awesome territory with mountains and farms stretching as far as the eye could see. Of course, once we started driving back up the mountains and beyond, Teresa was anxious and Scott was having a great time driving the red Mazda MX5. (He has a habit of taking Teresa out of her comfort zone, like driving on questionable roads but then producing quality experiences!)

Once we turned off onto Kammanassie road, we hit gravel roads again, took the top off the convertible and drove to our isolated farmstay. 

The 21st March is Human Rights Day  in South Africa. It is a public holiday and we observed people spending time celebrating with families during our journey.

The farmhouse was beautifully presented, very clean and well set out. Scott and I had our own bedroom each with a bathroom. Some home made snacks were supplied in the kitchen and chocolate bars were added to our towels on the beds. 

We relaxed and took in the serenity while watching clouds develop above the mountains. The grass surrounding the house was very soft and spongy and the gardens were beautiful and well maintained.

A small holding paddock next to us contained ewes with their new born lambs. They were very cute and Scott did his best to communicate with them…. I was sure the ewes were replying with ‘f-off ‘ as they glared at him!

Darkness fell and we retired into our comfy beds for the night.

Goeie Nag

The skies were clear so we took a drive to the water with the top off the car. We had to make the best of the convertible when we could. 

We walked along the estuary where people were walking their dogs. One lady was walking with three big dogs and one ran up to Teresa and jumped up and mouthed her arm. It was a bit frightening but the lady kept walking and said ‘sorry, sorry’ and thankfully the dogs followed her. The water was lovely and clear and a nice temperature and the sun was quite hot.

After soaking up some sunshine, it was time to explore some wineries.

The Newstead winery was about 20 minutes drive away. We secured a spot in the shade and our waiter was Happy …. Yes….that was his name! We ordered the Salmon Pate with shards, Charcuterie box and sipped on glasses of Rosé. Scott found a new friend and had his canine fix. 

We then drove back towards Plett and stopped at the Bitou winery.

Teresa chose the option 1 wine tasting and Scott chose a bubbly and then a Strawberry Daquiri. The vista was spectacular and we relaxed as we soaked up the atmosphere…..and wine.

A stop was then made at the Woolworths to stock up for our next leg of the journey to the mountains. Groceries cost about the same here but spirits are not over taxed like in Australia and so much cheaper! 

While heading back we noticed a large building down on the beach and decided to drive down to explore.

Beacon Island was on a lovely beach with people swimming and sun baking on the fine sand.

Car attendants assisted with parking and there were some market stalls selling local wares. Wading through the water was refreshing and it was nice to finish the day with a walk.

Clouds were building up all afternoon and the forecast was for rain the next day.

Goeie Nag

The mist returned and the ocean was grey again while rolling its waves onto the rocks and sandy beach at dawn. It dissipated at around 8:30am and we could feel the sting of the bright sun.

I spotted seals and also some jumping sharks again. It was hard to leave our beach hut but our next residence was in Plettenberg Bay. 

Scott wanted to drive up to the high streets as we were leaving because it was so much fun in this car.

Once out of town we drove through changing landscapes with mountains, palm trees and then hills with conifers growing abundantly. Occasionally there was a whiff of Marijuana like we experienced in Canada. Once past George we encountered plenty of roadworks.

We travelled through the Wilderness and onward to Knysna.

The land around us was very green and we arrived in Knysna to marvel at the beautiful lake and Waterfront docks.

The Drydock restaurant was chosen for lunch on the harbour. Scott ordered Karan steak Argentinian style and I had Rockefeller oysters – garlic and Gruyère cheese plus the red pepper soup of the day! Very tasty, great service and lovely location. 

The landscape once we were back on the road was more Canadian with the green pine trees and green foliage. We drove past some shanty towns and wondered how they would cope in the heat.

Plettenberg Bay is a resort town. We found our gated apartments and settled in.

The Palms Roof top bar was down the road and we marvelled at the view while sipping Daiquiris and margaritas accompanied by corn ribs.

We then explored the shopping strip and bought some supplies. I bought two Wyborowa vodka bottles with 43% alcohol content for $37AUD. Bargain!

In one of the shops, Scott noticed a tiny puppy which was only 8 weeks old. I was allowed a cuddle but Basil is still the cutest! 

The apartment balcony has amazing views and even better from my bedroom balcony upstairs.

Africa is the most amazing place and I’m so glad that Scott encouraged me to come. We are having the best experience so far.

Every Airbnb that Scott has booked outdoes the one before.

The bed and pillows were so comfortable and inviting so we retired to our rooms for the night.

Goeie Nag

Seals were still swimming past constantly in the morning mist as the waves continually crashed onto the shore. It was easy to sit and admire the view. I then noticed creatures flinging themselves out of the sea and crashing back in. I thought they may have been baby whales but there was no sign of their adult parents. After more observation and some googling I learnt that Great White Sharks jump when they are hunting and feeding on seals. Sharks jumping are apparently an uncommon event so we were very lucky to see this phenomenon. Their white underbellies and dark fins flashed as they looked strangely playful like they were having fun. The jumping continued all day but try as I might I could not catch footage of the sharks…they were a bit too far away.

The first plan for today was to drive to the Point of Human Origin.

Oddly, you need to access the road  through a private golf club and resort so we decided to go back to town and drive up to the Cape St. Blaize lighthouse which we could only see close up because of the mist. 

The red rocket MX5 was expertly driven up the driveway to a small car park next to the lighthouse. This was where we first saw the Rock Hyrax creatures feeding on the grass. Apparently they are all over this headland. 

We made our way up the steps into the restaurant and onto the viewing platform. It was very high!

The owner was a Val Kilmer look alike and he was very welcoming and chatty. He had lived there for years and to avoid loneliness he developed the restaurant, bar and viewing platform plus he rents out a room in the lighthouse or the house next door. The view from there was spectacular while we grabbed a bite to eat of toasted Chicken Pita and coffee for Scott and Jäegermeister shots for Teresa’s queasiness.

Scott then wanted to take the car around the upper heights of the Cape St. Blaize headland where there were luxury homes and accommodation accessed by some pretty steep streets. Scott was having the time of his life driving up these inclines in the little red Mazda convertible with top off.

Teresa had made an appointment earlier for a hair wash and blow dry, so Scott went shopping at the local Woolworths while the staff at Ruan’s Hair pampered Teresa with outstanding service for only $26AUD. They were also very helpful with suggestions of places to see in the area.

We came back to our wonderful beach hut and watched someone fly a drone over the jumping sharks while we were relaxing on the outdoor porch.

The mist finally cleared after 3pm to reveal the awesome landscape of the mountains, George and beyond.

The ocean returned to its lovely blue colour and families were taking advantage of the good weather by walking on the beach, kicking a ball or playing in the sand. The grassed area was very well maintained.

We took a walk along the esplanade past people fishing with very long rods and we could finally see  the lighthouse and upper parts of the town better with the clear sky. 

The sharks stopped jumping once it was dusk… the party was over! 

We admired the night sky after dark as the mist had disappeared.

Goeie Nag

I awoke to hearing the cows and went outside to see the herd close to the back of the cottage with calves feeding from their mums and bulls supervising the group.

We were only booked for one night in this cottage with Airbnb so we packed the red rocket and headed to Hermanus for a coffee and for Scott to do some work! This area is referred to as the ‘whale coast’ but all we saw was an enormous pod of dolphins making their way out to sea.

Mossel Bay was a three hour drive away so we looked for somewhere to break up the trip and the Van Loveren winery in Robertson was chosen. So we entered our navigation directions and took to the road. As we were leaving the suburbia of Hermanus, I spotted a random monkey on the roof of a house…later we drove past ‘monkey crossing’ and ‘baboon crossing’ signs – we are in Africa! As we drove past mountains, the terrain reminded us of the highlands in Scotland, then we would round a corner to see vast fields of harvested grains, corn fields and expansive vistas with the ribbon of road stretching out as far as the eye could see. Scott was in his element revelling in the joy of driving the Mazda through curves and the open roads. There is a driving etiquette here where slower cars or trucks will veer to the shoulder so others can pass, once passed, the driver flashes their hazard lights in appreciation and the slower car or truck flashes their high beam in response. There are very few multi lane roads here so this system works well.

We arrived at the Van Loveren estate which contained pristine white buildings amongst the most impressive gardens. We skipped the wine tasting and ordered lunch at Christina’s Bistro located in the garden on the estate.  Scott chose the carrot and coriander soup of the day and I had the grilled chicken Caesar salad with a glass of Daydream Chardonnay/Pinot Noir. Instead of the wine tasting I chose a couple of bottles of wine and bought their lovely wine cooler bag to keep them cold for the trip.

Mossel Bay was still nearly 3 hours away. We stopped for petrol at a place called Riversdale where people pump the gas for you and clean your windscreen without you having to get out of the car. Payment is cashless too but Scott had some Rand that he gave to the friendly male attendant as a tip. As we got on our way again, police were guiding cars aside for what we thought was a breath test but it was just a security and licence check. They were happy, friendly individuals who were humoured by Scott’s height and the compact car, joking that one of the officers was better suited for this model! Again, everyone has been so positive and friendly in this country. 

As we approached Mossel Bay which is purported to be the point of human origins, the weather turned into drizzle and fog which made navigating a little challenging. Our beach hut was located in a gated area and when we finally found the entrance we parked outside the white picket fence and entered an amazing place with uninterrupted views of the ocean.

We watched seals frolic past constantly before the day’s light faded into darkness. 

Goeie Nag

On Friday, Scott was unwell so I took myself to Main Street on my own to get some supplies and have brunch at Coco Safar cafe again. I had chosen a sleeveless top to wear but as soon as I was out of the unit it felt much cooler than expected. When I got to the Woolworths store, I found a nice knitted top which was better for the weather. Everyone was so nice and accommodating, I had the tag removed with scissors, at the counter, so I could keep the new top on. Just before this happened, the lady behind me told me that my tag was hanging out … which I explained.  Again, everyone is so willing to help others! They are so polite and so far it has been an absolutely positive experience. 

It was a quiet Friday while Scott rested. I watched local TV.  Then I realised that I had the same bug as Scott so I was forced to take it easy as well. 

On Saturday morning we spoke with family in Australia and did our usual quiz questions from local newspapers. 

A cleaner had been organised for 10am so we left Pinki to do her job and wandered down to the beach.  We stopped into a local art gallery and Scott was shown a piece that he was very interested in purchasing.

Catching an Uber to the Waterfront we strolled around amongst the Saturday tourists and were entertained by African bands and groups. 

We watched the seals frolic in the harbour while deciding to stop for a bite to eat and drink at Den Anker. The service, location and the food were top quality but not so successful for us as we were still affected by the bug. 

Sunday was MX5 day! The little red rocket was delivered to our premises at 10am and Scott was briefed and taken for a test drive. Needless to say he was excited to experience what Jeremy (Clarkson) said was the funnest car. So we crammed our belongings into the  compact boot, folded ourselves into the seats and off we went! Nothing screams Bougie as a red convertible!

As we drove out of Cape Town we observed the spectacular architecture of the houses on the waterfront.

We drove to Hout Bay with the top on and found a beautiful restaurant on the waters edge. The oysters here were so big that half a dozen were more like a dozen in flesh. The Clam Chowder was delicious…. my appetite had returned!

The bay was spectacular with pristine turquoise waters in a backdrop of craggy mountains. Many people were walking along the lovely strip of sand and it was rare to see anyone in the water because it was so cold … and also full of Moon Jellyfish. 

On the road again we drove past awesome landscapes for over 2 hours to arrive at our next destination of Hermanus.

We thought that we would have to drive to the town centre to eat dinner at a restaurant but there was a quaint establishment right next to our farmhouse. After settling in, we walked to the place next door and marveled at the local produce before ordering our meal. We had a lovely outdoor space to enjoy our meals of Oxtail Stew for me and Chicken Pie for Scott. The pastry here was homemade using  real butter… and the quality reflected this!!!

The farm cottage was sweet but I had a few concerns… the main light in my room did not work and when I went to put my head on a pillow, it was torn….. made me wonder how the cleaner could miss this when they were putting ‘fresh’ cases on the pillows??? But this was a minor issue as everything else was part of an awesome experience. 

It was a great day!

Goeie Nag

Singapore Airlines made the trip fairly comfortable, my seat was in Premium Economy and I was given a pouch containing an eye mask, slippers, lip balm and wet wipe.  The Sydney to Singapore flight takes around 8 hours and I did manage to snooze for a bit. 

My layover of 11 hours was too long for staying in the transit area of Changj Airport. About 6-8 hours would be sufficient if you wanted a sleep, refresh and rest. I had my hair washed and blow dried and then had a nice sleep and shower in the transit hotel. I paid $217AUD for a 6 hour respite … worth it for the privacy, shower and the bed. I enjoyed my meals and beverages in the KrisFlyer Gold lounges for free.

After wandering around the enormous airport, I purchased some items in duty free when I was told that I had to get to terminal 3…. I didn’t realise that I was in terminal 2 … so I had to catch the skytrain to terminal 3, all still within the transit area. The train was very easy to find and was clean and efficient. This took me to the KrisFlyer Gold lounge that I have been to many times before so I spent the last hours having a bite and a wine.

The next leg of the flight took about 10 hours to Johannesburg. Many passengers alighted there but those going on to Cape Town were told to remain on the plane. Cleaners and security personnel came through and did their jobs before a replacement crew started the next leg of the journey. It was a good opportunity to stretch our legs before the one and a half flight to Cape Town. Since they were vacated by a couple at Johannesburg, I asked if I could move to their window seats and permission was granted. There were about 30 per cent of the initial passengers continuing onto Cape Town so the plane looked quite empty. 

At Cape Town airport we had to disembark using the wobbly stairs and walk across the tarmac. Luckily there was not a cloud in the sky so the sunshine was a nice change from the aeroplane cabin.

All the airport staff were happy and willing to assist. We were reminded to make sure that we declare any restricted items…so the wine and small vodkas I bought in Singapore (to help me sleep but I didn’t open them) were going to put me over the limit … I didn’t check before I left home and I had popped a bottle of vodka and a Graham’s Port in with my checked luggage. The limit you can bring to South Africa is 2 bottles of wine and 1 litre of spirits. I was so sure that some would be confiscated but the lovely young customs man opened my bag, asked me why I came to SA and then handed me all my grog and sent me on my way.

So Scott was there to greet me and we had a coffee at the airport before catching an Uber to the accommodation in Sea Point.

The traffic was terrible and our driver skilfully worked his way past shanty shacks, schools, government buildings and shopping centres until we reached the seaside suburb. 

The apartment block is behind metal gates which are topped with electrical security wires. I looked around and noticed that this was common for all the dwellings around us.

It was just a two block walk to the beach and the swimming pool. Scott walked me down to the sand so I could dip my feet in the sea water and help avoid jet lag issues.

We then strolled along the esplanade and spotted an inviting restaurant across the road called the Grand Pavilion. Our waiter was the friendly Zimbabwen young man called Lesley. We ordered a bottle of local sparkling wine, oysters natural and Japanese style, tempura prawns, crispy calamari and a large garden salad. The food was superb and the view of the ocean was only interrupted by the traffic on Beach Street which included the topless red tourist buses, the occasional Maserati along with everyday cars like Range Rovers and Toyotas.

We finished with spicy margarita cocktails which were some of the best we have had anywhere in the world.

The shopping strip was busy and I noticed that there were security officers on general duty scattered across the city. Many shops are also behind iron gates which are activated by the staff inside.

There was even a guy selling cigarettes from his little stall on the footpath. The locals shop for their groceries at the Checkers Supermarket and people are so helpful. We gathered some supplies for the evening and walked back to the unit for a bit of a rest.

Dinner was just some corn crackers with eggplant dip and hummus. It was still daylight so we went down to the opposite direction of the shopping strip and stopped at a bar for some Dirty Martini’s and traditional margaritas while watching the locals go about their daily business.

It was a long day so an early night beckoned.

Goeie nag!

Saturday started out with another caviar and salmon omelette. Delicious! 

Scott wanted to visit the local flea market at the end of his street so we braved the cold and walked and walked.

Sadly, the flea markets were not happening so then we walked and walked some more to find a restaurant for lunch. This proved to be a difficult task as only hip students cafes and touristy take aways were here on Warschauer Strasse. So we decided to catch the S-Bahn to find another part of the city that might have better food offerings, only ending up catching the U-Bahn back to Neukoln. There we found a lovely Vietnamese restaurant called Kottidang. The food was amazing and warmed us up before another excursion to some markets.

As we were walking the wind was icy and the real feel temperature was -9C. We decided to Uber home and as it turned out, the other markets were not open either. 

We watched and really loved Clarkson’s Farm on  Amazon Prime when we were having some down time. It is hilarious and informative and we were thoroughly entertained by the show.

Time for dinner meant that we had to brave the cold again but the wind had died down and we just walked through some light sleet. We stopped at a Sudanese restaurant for a traditional soup.

Then went to a favourite Turkish restaurant where we consumed beef and eggplant dishes with Raki, wine and beer. 

Sunday was another cold day but no snow. In Germany, no shops are open on Sundays including supermarkets or Department Stores. The only highlight was dinner at Knödelwirtschaft SÜD where we ordered Goulash and Knödels – meatballs with various flavours. They were delicious!

On Monday I packed my bags for the long trip home and Scott fussed with housework. He sent the robot vacuum to do a thorough clean while we drove to the airport in a Bolt sharecar Audi.

The car park had more cars this time than on Monday night when returned from Lisbon. Snow was still built up around the perimeters.

Scott had to return to work and had a few meetings to conduct so we said our sad goodbyes and I went through security. I’m going to miss my personal chef, cocktail waiter, chauffeur and tour guide! I settled into the food court and ordered some shrimp and white wine. I wiled the time away by watching Reacher on Amazon Prime.

The Lufthansa flight to Frankfurt was delayed and we arrived at about an hour after expected. I thought this would eat into my ‘lounge time’ but as it turned out, it was a bit of a blessing.

I had to collect my checked bag which took over half an hour to appear and then I went in search of the Singapore Airlines check in counters. German efficiency dictates that the gates don’t open until exactly 3 hours before the flight. So it is not evident which counter to wait near! I asked a few people but they didn’t really make it clear. So I waited patiently and finally checked my bag in and asked about the lounge… she said I could go to the Lufthansa lounge…. Well that didn’t happen…. And the someone said maybe I could access the Air Canada Lounge… which sounded promising except for the fact that it was closed. So Singapore Airlines you disappoint me again!!!

I found a lovely restaurant near my gate and settled in with some food and wine. 

At least I knew that I could go to the lounge in Singapore and enjoy the Laksa I discovered on the way here! 

Once in Sydney I went to the old Uber pickup only to find that the Uber is now right at the exit and there is no need to cross the road….which I discovered after about 15 minutes of confusion. Now to get over the lag! 

Good night!

Wednesday was a cold day and we decided to walk to Aldi so I could get the tissues that are no longer sold in Australia. We browsed the aisles but we were not tempted to purchase any other items.  

I was surprised to see tobacco cigarette packets at the counter. 

Chicken soup and Bloody Mary’s were consumed for the evening meal. 

Thursday morning brought snow to Berlin! What lovely sight although it was only short lived and not very heavy.

Firstly Scott ordered some supplies for salmon and caviar omelettes and another version of a chicken soup since the weather was really cold. 

After the soup was made we went out into the inclement weather. It was a bit drizzly and after a few blocks we stopped in a little bar for some refreshments.

For some reason this year, Optus roaming has been unreliable. Luckily I have been with Scott who can access data in Europe. 

I contacted Optus a few times and they tried to explain to turn the phone off, put it in aeroplane  mode and then out so the phone finds the best source. This only worked intermittently and frustratingly I complained to Optus. Scott found a Reddit thread of other people complaining about the same issues.

To Optus’ credit they did reimburse me $75  ($5 a day) for the trouble I have had since I have been a loyal customer for over 8 years.

We then braved the weather and walked to the shopping precinct. Scott took me to his gym which looked like a nice place. Then we went to the hardware store to collect supplies to try to fix the wall in Scott’s bathroom.

We caught a taxi home because now the sleet was falling fast. When we got home it turned into snow!

It was time to enjoy a Graham’s Port, a taste acquired in Portugal.

Sixt car hire now do car share as well. It costs a little more to cross borders as we planned to drive to Leipzig to see Scott’s unit and then onto Zary in Poland, a town where I spent the most time in 1970. The Peugeot e-208 was new, clean and ready for us to do the planned trip.

Once on the autobahns the speed suggestions are 120kph but Scott was hurtling along when he could at speeds up to over 170kph. There was rain and snow which made Teresa anxious. 

We stopped at a McDonalds in Linthe. This was obviously a truck stop with the food outlets, sex-shop and Spielhalle (gambling hall). There was lots of snow around us. The lovely lady who served us in McDonalds commented that I spoke very good English! Ha ha!

Once in Leipzig, we met with the builder and viewed the progress of refurbishing the unit. Germany offers financial incentives for people to invest in and renovate old buildings that were damaged during the war. The builder explained that there is a medical university nearby and many young doctors are interested in living in the new units. He told Scott that the building should be finished in April.

We got onto the road again, this time aiming for Zary, Poland – a two and a half hour journey from Leipzig. We stopped for lunch at a roadside restaurant in Grimma, Germany. The sun came out for a while as we continued on our way. As we were driving, I realised that we wouldn’t get to Zary until after 3:30pm. It gets dark around 4pm and I thought about the fact that Scott would have another 2 hour drive to get to Berlin after we explored Zary. So we decided to just drive back to Berlin which was still a two hour trip from our location. The weather became inclement and we were driving through sleet and snow storms so we were happy with the decision to shorten the trip. At one point near Dresden we saw what looked like a traffic accident in the opposite direction. Traffic was banking up and it looked like a slow journey for those people. What surprised us was the number of Police vans we saw travelling to that location which made us wonder what was really going on …. I counted over 80 police vans!

Back in Neuköln Berlin, there was a welcome parking spot right outside Scott’s place. Once home, we settled in for the night.

Guten Nacht!

Ryan air departs from Terminal 2 at Lisbon Humberto Delgado Airport in Lisbon. It was very busy as so many people were travelling through this airport. 

The flight was delayed but we found ourselves a cosy spot in a cafe and settled in. While waiting, Scott ran into the young man that sat next to me on our earlier flight from Berlin to Lisbon. Coincidentally he had booked exactly the same seat on the way back. We were like old friends, chatting freely.

I was disappointed when we boarded the plane, the extra legroom seat that I had paid for Scott to stretch out had been replaced with a seat. 

Not impressed!!! If I had known, I would have booked seat 1A instead 🤬. 

I will reconsider booking with Ryanair in the future but then it is a budget airline and you get what you pay for! 

After just over 3 hours, we were back in Berlin Brandenburg airport at around midnight and to our dismay there were no ride share cars in the large car park designated for these vehicles. 

So the local train was the next option. After about a 30 minute journey to Ostbahnhof we alighted and found a ride share car to complete the trip home. Being so late at night we had to settle on a parking space about 2 blocks away from Scott’s unit and walk the rest of the way after midnight.

Once home, we were exhausted and welcomed sleep. 

Tuesday was an easy day. We walked down to the Edeka supermarket and bought supplies for Scott to make a Chicken Noodle Soup.

He was busy cooking while I relaxed with a Bloody Mary. Everything was delicious!

I needed to book  my travel from Berlin to Frankfurt for my flight home. Since my flight wasn’t until Monday night, I decided to fly to Frankfurt on the Monday afternoon. Lufthansa had the most direct flights so I booked the 1 hour flight. The cost of the flight was very expensive but I realised that Germany discouraged short flights due to its commitment to environmental sustainability. A train would’ve been much cheaper but navigating with luggage from station to station was undesirable. 

I finally got to make a hairdressing appointment for Wednesday at a salon around the corner from Scott’s place. Dry Shampoo is a must when travelling to manage one’s style between hair stylings! 

We were enjoying some down time over the next couple of days and planned to drive to Leipzig on Friday.

Guten Nacht